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From Hype to Disillusionment?

Louis-Philippe Kerkhove - 08/12/2025

There was no escaping the AI hype in 2025. Now, the real work begins.

In our recent expert contribution for Fashion United, we predicted that 2026 will be a year of correction. We are stepping away from the idea of using AI for everything and focusing on what truly matters: Returns, Sustainability, and Operational Excellence.

Below, you will find the extended version of that contribution.

There was no escaping AI in 2025, and we started experimenting en masse—with varying degrees of success; not everyone proceeded with the same level of deliberation. For some, 2026 will be the year of disillusionment, with more than one AI horror story making headlines.

Most problems can be traced back to two common mistakes. Some are using language models like ChatGPT directly for calculations—in areas where small or rare errors can have major consequences, such as placing orders with suppliers. A second, and perhaps even more frequent risk, is unchecked automation without a "human in the loop." A process that runs much faster can also cause significant problems much faster.

From Disillusionment to Pragmatism?

Thanks to the many experiments, it is becoming easier to identify the true killer applications. My expectation is that many AI-driven customer experience and personalization tools will fail to live up to expectations. The real value lies in the back office.

Applications assisting with collection planning, pricing, and inventory management will fundamentally change the landscape. They offer a partial answer to the flawed business case for sustainability—where customers demand sustainability but are unwilling to pay a premium for it.

This aligns with broader nearshoring trends, which bring both greater flexibility and a lower environmental impact. In line with this, we are seeing the rise of the digital product passport, featuring mandatory traceability. Legal obligations ensure better data; AI innovations ensure more streamlined processes and higher returns.

Creatives becoming mathematicians

Fashion is the realm of creatives—without a feel for your product, you get nowhere. However, a creative mind is often not a mathematical mind. Consequently, many fashion retailers are driven by gut feeling. The human face that AI has acquired will enable these creatives to see their ideas translated into a quantitative world.

Creating a coherent collection without quantitative elements? Starting tomorrow, there is no longer a valid excuse for approaching it that way.